Housed within the stylish Rosselli Hotel, on one of Valletta’s most elegant streets, Under Grain welcomes guests into a setting that is as sophisticated as its cuisine. The restaurant occupies the building’s historic lower level, where guests pass by the kitchen before entering a dining room with a vaulted stone ceiling and dark, atmospheric decor. Inspired by the tailor shops that once lined Merchant Street, the restaurant weaves this theme throughout, from the sewing-pattern menus to displays of garments, and even the pincushion used to present the bill. The score is depicted by a concise à la carte lineup and a tasting menu, both of which reveal the chef’s distinctly creative bent. At times, he dares to explore bold, unexpected combinations, such as one of his signature dishes, which pairs mussels with sweet Gorgonzola and passion fruit, while at others, he turns to more classic flavours, such as a Chateaubriand served with variations on mushrooms. Even the bread course is memorable, evoking the chef’s own childhood snacks. The wine list is thoughtfully curated, and packed with gems from around the world, especially Italy and France; excellent by the glass service.