To find the front door, you’ll have to follow your nose. The scent of barbecue wafts down an alleyway fitted with stacks of firewood. Inside, find a dazzling space lined with maple slats, a domed ceiling and salmon-pink booths and walls. There is nothing like it around, and no surprise that Chef Matty Matheson is the mastermind here behind the city’s newest and most ambitious steakhouse. The menu is tightly curated balancing fantastic seafood, big meats cooked on the grill and serious vegetable preparations. Sicilian crudo and delicate ricotta dumplings are proper preludes to a bone-in dry-aged strip loin. Supplements like palace potatoes, cacio e pepe-inspired cauliflower and steamed carrots with pink shrimp aim to be more than sideshows.