Chilly Toronto nights call for cozy spaces, and Lapinou delivers in spades with its beamed ceiling, vintage-style oil lamps, forest green booths and an eye-catching green-veined marble bar. Just west of the Theater District in an area teeming with standout spots, Lapinou pulls its weight with a fresh spin on classic bistro fare. Don't confuse tried and true with ho-hum though, as Chef Jamie Ullrich carefully balances tradition with intrigue. Shrimp cocktail is a simple but elegant starter, as is the perfect disc of beef tartare topped with an egg yolk and sided by sourdough toast. Duck confit is comfort in a casserole dish with buttery white flageolet beans and garlicky andouille sausage. The delightful tarte au cafe rounds out the enjoyable experience.