To order, you buy a ticket from a dispensing machine, each button listing a different brand of pork. Knowing the owner-chef is a yakitori craftsman, however, means chicken cutlet is also tempting. Note the attention to detail: the thick-cut pork loin is thin only at the ends because it’s full of fat and fibre there; rice cooked in an earthenware pot is transferred to a wooden tub to control its moisture content. Care is also taken with the plates and bowls, with antique Imari porcelain adding a note of elegance.