The chef assembles the sequence of yakitori chicken cuts according to customer preferences. To their delight, he starts beer drinkers off with chicken breast and wine tipplers with chicken heart. Seasoning is simple: salt, sauce or soy sauce, depending on the item—whichever best brings out the flavour. The top recommendation is the chicken wings, which ticks all three boxes. The skin is fragrant, the meat and fat are sweet, and the umami unique to meat on the bone.