Takashi Miyawaki is taking fugu (blowfish) cuisine to a new level. Thick-cut sashimi is dressed with caviar and olive oil; skin and milt become spring rolls. While the fare is strictly Japanese, Western ingredients and oils are added to good effect. Even pots of stew are served individually, for a special twist. Prices are set quite reasonably to ensure people see fugu as accessible. Now a much-loved dish especially on celebratory occasions, fugu brings happiness through eating.