The peaceful countryside of Fouron stretches out around the 19C farmhouse whose terrace commands a breathtaking view. Exposed rafters do add character, but don’t expect anything more than that in terms of rusticity, because the interior in fact sports designer materials, an open wine cellar and lounge music. Upstairs, two one-room flats offer the chance to relax in style after your meal, but, before that, let’s do justice to the high-flying talent of Maurice Huynen and Peterhans van Harinxma. Their cuisine is both heartwarming and polished, regional and international. Examples include local trout from Commanderie 7 baked whole and flanked by a punchy marinade and a stock made from fish bones, all of which is smoked for 24 hours to produce an explosion of savours for the tastebuds. Chef Maurice shows infinite respect for the ingredient as he carefully crafts powerful sauces, while Peterhans, in charge of the front-of-house and a sommelier, adds a hint of classicism, courtesy of his cellar of white Burgundies, without forgetting the odd regional and international tipple.