Just off the Champs-Élysées, this Directoire-style private mansion never fails to leave a lasting impression. René Lasserre (d. 2006), who came to Paris as a teenager to learn the trade, raised the restaurant to the status of iconic landmark. Columns, plants and orchids, silver tableware and knick-knacks, crystal chandeliers, Chinese porcelain etc have graced the lavishly appointed dining room for over 80 years. The famous retractable roof, which bathes the tables in natural light or is opened up according to the seasons, is another feature that adds to the magic of the place. Chef Jean-Louis Nomicos tweaks the establishment's culinary heritage with a personal touch, also borrowed from his beloved Mediterranean: stuffed macaroni, black truffle, celery and duck foie gras in a light gratin; "André Malraux" squab, petits pois à la française; Carabinero prawns a la plancha, almond cream and peas with marigold; gourmet chocolate soufflé tart.