Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire has all the trappings of a gourmet temple, starting with its suitably eye-catching bright blue façade and pretty awnings. An exclusive clientele comes to wind down in the chic brasserie that is fashionably stark yet supremely comfortable. The focus is on enjoying good food courtesy of a delicate, precise score in the zeitgeist with a seafaring slant: carpaccio of seabream, sake-perfume salmon roe and seafood ice cream; terre de Sienne langoustines, creamy coconut milk squash, yellow mango; Gaya apple tart with poppy-perfumed chantilly cream. In their own words: Rather than tradition or modernity, we aim for “tenderness”!