Onion-shaped lamps hang from the ceiling. In this couple-run restaurant, the wife has studied Italian cuisine and the husband was a sommelier at a French restaurant. They chose the name (‘tamanegi’ is Japanese for ‘onion’) because of the bulb’s familiarity in both Italian and French cooking. Taking her culinary cues from her experience in Italy’s Piemonte region, the dishes are bold yet delicate in flavour. Pasta is made by hand the way she learnt in Piemonte; completely free-range beef is paired with organic wines.