The restaurant’s famous steak frites is prepared with Omi beef from owner-chef Kawata’s native Shiga Prefecture. He favours aitchbone and rump cuts, as they are low in fat and rich in umami. Grilled in chunks of at least 200g, their innate flavour is presented without fancy additions. Kawata’s skill in preparing meat dishes, honed in France, is displayed to good effect. Portions for all dishes are generous, so diners can savour the meat to their hearts’ delight.