On a narrow alley off Oimatsu-dori, the backlit sign saying ‘Ame ni mo makezu’ (Be not Defeated by the Rain) arrests the eye. The script has a character all its own, as the owner-chef wrote it himself using chopsticks dipped in charcoal. Fare is prepared with plenty of fermented seasonings to complement the sake. Grilled fish is marinated in malted rice; chicken liver garnished with rice-bran bread. The way of living shown in Miyazawa Kenji’s masterpiece is manifested in the food on offer.