Félix Gagnaire extends a warm welcome in this bistro whose hearty, buzzy vibe sports the ubiquitous bistro chairs, worn tiles and mismatched wooden tables. His wallet-friendly patriotic score stars seasonal produce: salmon tartare with sesame and ginger; flank steak with turnips, baby potatoes and a peppercorn sauce; roasted apricots and peaches, tonka bean ice cream. The next-door wine bar goes by the same name.