A tight C-shaped counter surrounds the owner-chef. Imaginatively prepared skewers appear in rapid succession and the variety is extraordinary: mushrooms with soy butter, steamed wheat gluten with yuzu miso, bread filled with cream cheese. The prix fixe offering is called ‘Ippo Tsuko’, meaning ‘one way’, as skewers are placed in front of guests with no consultation. The owner-chef never forgets to show modesty and humour.