The restaurant’s name alludes to a proverb from a Chinese Confucian text: ‘Striving is the essence of virtue’. Shinya Matsumoto felt a special connection to this passage, as two of its four characters were identical to two of the four characters of his name. Having worked as a fish wholesaler and with fishermen, he sources his fish from the Hokuriku region. The heart of his menu is char-grilling, inspired by genshiyaki (grilling over an open hearth). Charcoal and ingredients are placed in the brazier to reduce moisture and concentrate flavour and this ancient cooking method imparts a rustic beauty.