A classic grand hotel like the Excelsior Ernst (dating from 1863) may not be the setting you would expect for a restaurant done out in a minimalist Asian style. But for all its classicism, the venerable establishment right next to the cathedral also has a chic, modern side, which taku fits into perfectly. The straightforward, elegant design is complemented by Mirko Gaul's contemporary and well-thought-out dishes. Successfully balancing spiciness, acidity and sweetness, he creates an aromatic fusion of East Asian cuisine and Western/international influences. Here and there, you will also find regional produce among the selected ingredients. The "Degustation" set menu is offered in four or six courses. The wine recommendation by the glass is nice.