A subtle sprinkling of rustic details lends this modern brasserie a pleasant, homely feel, with the bonus of an equally inviting terrace. The chefs continue to champion Belgian classics, albeit with more modern plating. For example, calf’s sweetbread is reworked with playful textures, without losing sight of the recipe’s soul-warming and hunger-obliterating core, while tartare of lemon-spiked gambero rosso is flanked by red beetroot, unveiling a Mediterranean sensitivity. A pleasing attention to detail combined with reassuring, almost regressive flavours.