A single door, with a host to match, marks the entrance to this culinary laboratory that goes far beyond its tiny name. Dinner begins in the lounge with a fun, brainy cocktail before moving to the main room where guests settle in at a curved counter built around a stainless-steel workspace. Through a series of small bites and courses, whimsy and surprise are driving forces of inspiration. From chicharron with avocado to cauliflower with caviar, nothing is ever quite what it seems. The fun is carried through to the very end. A recent riff on mango sticky rice was a playful delight followed by the signature, crowd-pleasing fried ice cream donut. Along the edges of the room, sharply suited servers ensure a seamless, sincere experience.