Butchers, artisan bakers, antique shops and coffee shops define this stretch of Ossington Avenue where the appealingly worn Union awaits. There is a horseshoe-shaped bar at the entrance, but head back to the rustic brick-faced dining room. If you're up for a bit of theater, nab a seat at the counter to catch the action.Chef/owner Teo Paul once worked on a farm and his menu is a love letter to the region's seasons and its local suppliers. Lunch is perfect for a quick bite, while dinner is more of an event. Dishes are rustic with a refined edge and pack a flavorful punch (steak tartare is spiced up with habanero, for one). Polenta gratin with rustic tomato sauce, seasonal vegetables, fontina and chili jam is straight-up comfort. If the servers are busy, the chef himself will swing by with your plate.