This boisterous hotspot offers up no shortage of personality. Almost everything on this distinctive menu passes through a battery of roaring wood-burning grills and hearths, lending a primal smokiness that pervades the food and room alike. At the end of the line is a single cook at an earthenware comal, preparing tortillas from heirloom corn nixtmalized and ground in-house. Masa-based items like memela filled with melty quesillo, smoky preserved shiitakes and crunchy chicharron show off the kitchen’s creativity. Grilled meats, like a meltingly tender secreto "al pastor" with charred pineapple, are a highlight. Those hard-pressed to make decisions can opt for a tasting menu. In tandem, the bar provides a wealth of imaginative agave-based cocktails.