Personally run Rado is a place of contrasts. It’s located in the delightfully historic Old Town but has a stylish modern interior. And the buzzy vibe of its ground floor gives way to a more intimate atmosphere in the basement. What is consistent throughout is the service. The chatty, knowledgeable team will guide you through the daily blackboard menu, whose terse descriptions mask ambitious dishes guided by the seasons, maybe ‘Cauliflower’, served with a thick thyme sauce and topped with parmesan, or ‘Lamb Liver’, presented on a bed of creamy mash and accompanied by bitter chicory leaves and sharp pickled mushrooms.