Dim yellow lights, 1930s memorabilia, golden oldies performed by singers dressed in qipao… but, surprisingly, the ambiance doesn't steal the show. It's the first-rate Shanghainese fare at bargain prices that keeps the place packed. One highlight of the fish-focused menu is crab, as the owner picks the best from his own farm; the crabmeat and roe on rice is a must. Fried shredded eel with water bamboo affords a nice contrast of textures.