This beautifully decorated, formal restaurant occupies what was once the music room of this sumptuous and luxurious 17th-century country house. Shaun Rankin’s creative, modern cooking is a perfect fit for these surroundings and is inspired by his childhood memories and an insider’s knowledge of the area. There is a bounteous larder in Yorkshire and the tasting menu, which flows in a skilled way, focuses on its very best produce. Adding to the experience is a well-organised and professional service team.