The name is a nod to an amusing tradition whereby a fire engine’s ladder was named after the captain's wife. In the former Chanzy fire station (1926), chef Julien Raphanel crafts a high-flying score: lightly seared langoustine with a briny seaweed sabayon; pan-fried Racan pigeon, caramelised apples and buckwheat espuma… The terrace commands a jaw-dropping view of Reims cathedral. Next-door, Little Georgette rolls out a bistronomic lineup of French family favourites at reasonable prices.