Her grandparents were hatmakers (hence the name), but Sophie’s love was cooking, a passion she now shares with her son Thomas. In a tastefully refurbished brick townhouse, the focus is on enhancing local produce courtesy of familiar flavours and elegant plating. For example, if rabbit is on the menu, it may be in a stew, or rolled and stuffed with meat and prunes, or as mashed potatoes drizzled with a creamy, mustard-spiked rabbit gravy. Rich gutsy sauces are something of the house hallmark. This hatmakers is a splendid marriage of heritage, know-how and down-to-earth, family hospitality.