Trained in Japan before moving to France (where he worked with Stéphane Jégo, Bruno Verjus and Bertrand Grébaut), chef Masahide Ikuta works in an unpolished setting typical of the neighbourhood: scraped walls, waxed concrete and mottled mirrors. In his single blind menu that draws on premium ingredients, France meets Japan, eg Mont-Saint-Michel cockles, matured Simmental beef or Cantabrian anchovies. Clarity characterises his dishes with complex sauces – sashimi-style sea bream enhanced with leche de tigre, trout roe, mango, oxalis and sea fennel for a tangy, herbaceous touch. The wine cellar boasts almost 400 labels.