Something of a hidden gem, this inviting brasserie-style restaurant is situated within a Palladian country house hotel, itself secreted down the narrow lane of an attractive Cotswolds town. Chef Jamie McCallum is quietly putting all his experience to use here on straightforward yet refined dishes where each plate is pleasingly uncluttered. A superb beef Wellington shows the kitchen at its best, accompanied by a pot of deep, rich and glossy Madeira reduction. When execution is skilled and ingredients are strong, there’s little need for anything else.