With its terraced setting overlooking a church in the center of the city, Brio looks and feels very Oaxacan. It's fitting, then, that the menu echoes the tribute to the region with its focus on local dishes and ingredients given a hint of Mediterranean flair. The wood-fired grill is the centerpiece, with all proteins kissed by the flames. Begin with an appetizer such as the roasted beet salad set atop chile de agua cream sauce and chamomile honey alongside sliced tomatoes and apples. Then, bone-in pork chop benefits from the wood fire, but the peanut mole is the last word. Crème brûlée is given a twist here, infused with poleo for a brightness not often seen.