The young chef-owner learnt his craft from his father, a highly regarded master in Huaiyang cuisine. At this restaurant, he flaunts solid technique, with his simple, well-made – and competitively priced – Huaiyang fare. The brine-poached pigeon has juicy, silky meat and imparts lingering umami. Check out the chef's recommendations on the blackboard, too. Certain painstakingly made dishes, such as sweet and sour "squirrel" mandarin fish, need to be pre-ordered.