In his eatery near the Stade Vélodrome, this artist-cum-chef on a perpetual creative quest has elevated the small portion to the realm of art. He is a virtuoso when it comes to spices, roasting and smoking and his childhood in Congo flows freely through his cuisine. This distinctive hallmark is further enriched by a unique use of vinegars (over 400 house creations) that add depth and complexity to his jus. The resulting lineup of some forty small dishes, a truly herculean task, is surgically crafted and often visually striking: cuttlefish steamed in sake, puffed barley, briny seasoning and seaweed; watercress, smoked beetroot, langoustine milk, iced burnt langoustine heads. Each meal is a feat of culinary excellence, supervised by a diffident, yet single-minded chef, whose watchful eye never leaves the serving hatch.