This Lyon institution, run by Christophe Marguin, draws its inspiration from fine classic cuisine, which it serves in a modernised form: macaroni stuffed with poultry liver and truffle, poultry jus and Etrez cream; veal sweetbreads meunière, glazed carrots etc. "Le Président" refers to Édouard Herriot, then mayor of Lyon, who used to come and have coffee here.