An 18th Century gunpowder store is the home for this restaurant in the semi-wild waterside area of Margretheholm. Its unassuming exterior and pared-back dish presentation belie the supreme skill and enormous amount of flavour in each course. Exceptional produce is given the space to shine thanks to refined, thoughtful combinations; just-cooked monkfish, for example, is enhanced by a fine ragout of morel mushrooms, a red wine and fish stock reduction and a vin jaune emulsion. The service team run the show with charm and ease.