Paul Bocuse’s legend is as vibrant as ever. The “cook of the century”, as gifted in the kitchen as in business and an example for so many of today’s international stars of gastronomy, was no doubt the first modern chef. Faithful to this spirit, the high-flying kitchen brigade (two chefs and a maitre d’, all MOFs, and a world champion of iced desserts) endeavours to uphold this legacy, whilst anchoring the establishment firmly in the present. The master’s recipes have thus been lovingly and painstakingly reworked with a focus on seasonal creations in an updated menu. The performance staged in the dining room is equally dramatic, courtesy of tableside carving and flambées carried out with textbook precision, illustrated by a Dombes duckling served in two courses, lacquered with citrus fruits and flambeed. The decadent dessert trolley is both modern and wickedly addictive. At Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, the story has far from reached its conclusion.