You can't miss this shop – just look for the red lanterns, perforated wood windows… and the queue. Since 1985, it's been serving home-style Sichuanese dishes made the traditional way: stir-frying, steaming and shuizhu. The braised eel with eggplant has contrasting textures and the savvy use of Chinese patchouli elevates it to the next level. For non-spicy food lovers, the sticky rice pork ribs and meatball soup are both great choices.