Chef Christophe Dufossé has been thriving in his homeland, as his cooking illustrates. This pretty château set in leafy grounds sports a contemporary conservatory extension. Here, he champions organic, self-sufficient and sustainable surf and turf cooking centred on vegetables and produce from the North. Every dish is delicately yet generously crafted – and flanked by robust classic sauces. The dishes speak for themselves – monkfish gratin with a sabayon sauce and its ragout of clams, razor clams and cockles. Other highlights are the bread and sweets, particularly the incredibly lavish dessert trolley.