Behind a non-descript black door numbered 22, charcoal-scented secrets unfold. Diners sit around an L-shaped black counter, watching the grill master as he cooks chicken to yakitori perfection over binchotan charcoal. The menu includes a full range of hormone-free chicken parts – thigh, hatsumoto, wing, liver and gizzard, which are flavoured in one of four tare sauces and seasoned with tri-region salt. The final bite, a grilled chochin, is a real highlight.