In this 17C Basque watermill nestling deep in a picturesque vale, a conservatory commands views of the countryside and lush garden all year round. The site is emblematic of the ecological, humanist and gastronomic ethos of chef Fabrice Idiart. Now 100% vegetarian, his set menus, in which vegetables are dressed with plant-based and spicy sauces, reflect the chef's distinctive, unorthodox approach. Enticing.