It’s very black-and-white at Little Serow, a spot that’s neither fancy nor fussy and a stickler for rules. For starters, there’s no phone, so you can forget about reservations. The menu is fixed, and that means no changes (nope, not even for your lactose-free, gluten-free, pork-hating friend). Want more spice? Don’t even try to tell them how to cook. Still interested? You’d better get in line, because the door opens promptly at 5:30 P. M.
Little Serow lures hipsters with Northern Thai cooking that isn’t handcuffed to please the lowest common denominator, as well as wine pairings that perfectly complement the bold flavors. Classic minced chicken laap is ratcheted up, while the crispy fried tofu’s Thai chili-enhanced sauce knocks out with a one-two punch.
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