There’s nothing like a discreet entrance to raise expectations—and Hirohisa is nicely concealed on Thompson Street. When you do find it, you enter into a stylish, beautifully understated and meticulously laid out room that looks like a page from Wallpaper magazine. It’s run with considerable charm by an unobtrusive and very courteous Japanese team. The two-page menu is easy to decipher with clear headings. However, you might just be better off giving in and letting the chefs decide by going for the balanced and seasonal dishes from the seven- or nine-course omakase. Two things will quickly become clear: the ingredients are exceptional and the technical skills of the team considerable. This is food that is as rewarding to eat as it is restorative. Standouts include the lingering, complex flavors of Kumamoto oysters wrapped in Wagyu beef carpaccio and topped with Maine sea urchin, perfectly grilled Japanese kinki or anything with their homemade tofu. There are tables available, but it’s so much more satisfying to sit at the counter and engage with the smiling chefs—this way, you may even find that there are a few more dishes in their repertoire than they advertise.
- Gli ispettori della guida MICHELIN